KNIT MAGAZINE

What is acetate?

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Hello! I’m Kasuzawa from the Materials Department.

It’s hard to imagine the raw material manufacturing process because there aren’t many opportunities to see it with the naked eye.

So, continuing from the previous “I will answer what polyester is after all“, I will write about acetate, which seems to be remembered and difficult to explain!

What is acetate?

Acetate fiber is a fiber made from acetyl cellulose, which is made from wood pulp (cellulose) and reacted with acetic acid. The one with two is called diacetate, and the one with three is called triacetate and the number of acetyl groups to be added.
Cellulose = wood is the raw material

Acetyl group = petroleum is the raw material

“* Semi-synthetic fiber” is a fiber that has been processed into a fiber by chemically reacting a part of natural cellulose.

Originally it is natural cellulose, but since it is manipulated a little artificially, it is an image called semi-synthetic fiber because it is a “half-synthesized fiber”.

* Semi-synthetic fiber: A fiber made from natural protein components such as cellulose as the main component and chemically processed. It is called semi-synthetic fiber because it combines natural and chemical substances into fibers.

There are other semi-synthetic fibers, such as Promix, but all of them, including acetate and triacetate, have a light, smooth and comfortable texture. It is shiny and has good coloring.

Features and uses of acetate

merit

  • Has a beautiful and elegant luster like silk.
  • Attractive with a fluffy texture and rich feel similar to hair.
  • Has moderate hygroscopicity, heat retention, and elasticity.
  • Beautiful drapes and silhouettes can be expressed.
  • Highly thermoplastic and can be pleated.

Demerit

  • It dissolves when nail polish remover or nail polish remover is applied.
  • Colored items may be discolored due to exhaust gas.
  • When alkaline detergent is used, the gloss disappears due to a chemical reaction.
  • Low strength.

Acetate fibers can be made into threads by putting them together to give them a silk-like texture, such as having moderate hygroscopicity and a beautiful luster. It is also used as a material for clothing because it gives a soft texture, but its durability against stretching and friction is not so high, and it is used as part of high-end fashion.

As a cigarette filter, it seems to be related to the property that the fiber is easy to produce, but it also has the property that it does not give off an unpleasant odor even when heated, so it is still used as a material that does not change the taste of cigarettes today. It has been. Since the raw material, acetyl cellulose, has flame retardancy, it is also used in fireproof curtains in combination with other materials.

In addition, the transparency is very high, so you can color it beautifully. Other petroleum-based resins, nylon and polyester, PET bottle materials, etc. are turbid and it is difficult to produce beautiful colors, but they are much more transparent than those petroleum-based resins, so they express vivid colors. can.

Also, compared to petroleum-based plastics, it is more transparent and the surface is easier to polish, so a unique luster that looks like wet is also a feature of this material. Therefore, it is a material that is also used for the frame of eyeglasses, and because it is a material derived from nature, it is vulnerable to heat and naturally deforms, but taking advantage of its disadvantages, it is used for curves of shoehorns as well as frames. It starts to deform with heat of 60 °, so it can be bent and twisted relatively easily.

Based on the above points, I would like to touch upon the pleating process of acetate.

As some of you may know, polyester, which is cheap, highly productive, and pleated, has been replaced by various materials. Acetate is one of them.

However, even if the same processing is applied, the facial expressions of polyester and acetate are different.

Acetate can express drape and luster more strongly, so it goes very well with elegant styles. Also, it seems that the number of people who are getting tired of the casual atmosphere of polyester is increasing recently.

Please pay attention to the acetate crystal pleats, which are introduced here .

How to make acetate fiber

Acetate fibers are made by chemically reacting high-purity wood pulp with acetic anhydride using a sulfuric acid catalyst to make acetate flakes.

In order to remove insoluble solids and sparingly soluble gel from the raw material flakes, it is dissolved in various solvents and filtered to prepare the spinning stock solution.

The undiluted spinning solution heated just before spinning is discharged into the heated air inside the spinning cylinder from a nozzle controlled to a very small pore size of 30 to 50 mm, and the yarn is formed and manufactured while evaporating the solvent. This is called the dry spinning method.

Returning to Micron’s story, the thickness of sheep’s hair is about ↓.

Strong wool 23-25 ​​micron

Middle wool 20-22 micron

Fine wool 20-21 micron

Extra fine wool 18.5-19.5 micron

Super Extra Fine Wool 17.5-16.5 Micron

(The larger the micron, the thicker the hair)

The fiber cross section is shaped like a clover leaf. There are several lines running in the fiber direction, and this area is similar to rayon.

The specific density is 1.32, which is almost the same as hair.

Here is the recommended material based on the above characteristics of acetate ↓! ・ 1/34 soil

・ 1/26 Matte soil

https://www.maruyasu-fil.co.jp/departments/monteluce/yarn-collection/796

Both are acetate stretch and feature beautiful eyes.

Please see the details from the URL!

summary

This time, I intended to write about acetate as easily as possible, but I feel once again that it will be difficult to convey when the chemical part comes in.

Although! As you can see from the features, softness and beautiful luster are materials that create an elegant atmosphere from mode items to casual items.

Please take advantage of it.

Well then!

The image is borrowed here ↓

http://www.k-chip.net/sub8.html

https://sustainablejapan.jp/2016/01/28/oil-production/20901

https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/fiber/66/3/66_3_P_98/_pdf