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I feel like I’ll finally be released from summer ^^
I hope autumn will come soon!
Well, this time it’s the most behind the scenes of knitwear, but I would like to introduce the most important linking.
- What is linking?
- Describes the features of linking sewing.
- Do you know which is the front or back of the linking seam? ?? (Additional note 2007,08,17)
- Linking specifications (additional note 2017.08.17)
- Kind of linking machine
- Linking thread (additional note 2017.08.17)
What is linking?
Linking is a sewing method peculiar to flat knits, and unlike sewing machines, it is a method suitable for elastic knit fabrics that are closely related to knitting. The characteristics of linking are that the seams of the product are inconspicuous, the product can be finished with high quality by pressing the thickness of the seams, and the sewing method that emphasizes the characteristics, surface effect, and elasticity of the flat knit fabric.
I will explain the features of linking sewing
-Since the number of loops in the eye is calculated and pierced into the needle, sewing does not occur.
・ Does not lose its shape after washing
-The unit for sewing is not centimeters, but the number of loops, so there is no deviation.
2, small seam allowance
-As explained above, the thickness of the seam allowance can be suppressed. This is to sew the loops together.
-Since the loop and the loop are overlocked with the same stitch, it is highly elastic and the stitch fits into the fabric.
4, pattern matching is possible
-You can match the stitches.
・ There is a sense of quality by matching the patterns.
Do you know which is the front or back of the linking seam? (Addition 2017,08,17)
Did you know that the linking seams have front and back sides? ??
In fact, linking has a front side and a back side! !!
Please see the image below.
Below are the front and back of the linking of the same knitted fabric, respectively.
That’s the problem! !! Which is the front and which is the back?
Perhaps many people choose the loop item ① as the table.
Is it because knit = eyes = loop?
To be correct, ① is the back and ② is the front!
It is difficult to explain with just words, so please take a look at the actual knitted fabric as well.
how is it? Do you see what it looks like in the figure above?
The front looks like a sewing machine, but the back has a chain stitch.
Rather than sewing in cm or mm as in fabrics, linking has a gauge similar to knitted fabric, and the size of the loop in the knitted fabric determines the linking gauge.
The guideline for determining the linking gauge is to make it about 2 gauge finer than the gauge of the knitted fabric, but it also depends on the texture of the knitted fabric (tenjiku, rubber fabric, etc.).
For example, if you have a 12G knit, you can link it on a 14G linking machine.
This may be trivia that you don’t really need, but ^^;
Linking specifications (2017,08,17)
I somehow understood the linking, but how is that eye reproduced …
I’m sure there are people who are confused and can’t sleep at night, so I’ll explain it here.
The idea is very simple.
Have you ever made a knit with a key needle or have seen it made?
The key needle is a knitting method in which a thread is hooked on the needle to create a loop, but the idea is the same as that (I explain it quite briefly), and while hooking the thread, a loop is formed and sewn. I am doing.
Here is the process.
①Put your eyes into the 1st and 1st needles
As shown in the picture, I will look at each eye with my thoughts.
By the time this is over, I usually want to take a break lol
It’s such a nerve-wracking task ＞ ＜
② Stick the sewing needle
Since it is automatic, the needle will move.
③ Make a loop
Finally, the most important point! It’s time to create a loop! !!
Please take a closer look at the part surrounded by the yellow circle. Can you see that the tip is slightly bent like a key needle?
This part automatically creates a loop just like a key needle.
It will be linked only after performing this series of operations ^ ^
Kind of linking machine
Have you ever seen a linking machine?
As you may know from the previous SS exhibition, there are two types depending on the application.
Both types have names.
A: Flat linking (star anise)
I borrowed the image from here. http://www.marusans.com/products/products_09.html
It will be a straight and long linking machine.
The parts that are mainly used are often used for straight parts such as the armpits.
B: Dial linking
The image was borrowed from here http://www2.ocn.ne.jp/~saimeri/knitroom/Knitroom.html
This is a sphere-shaped linking machine, unlike the flat linking introduced earlier.
This is often used mainly for the neckline of curved parts.
Linking thread (additional notes 2017,08,17)
The thread used for linking is basically the same thread.
Familiar with the fabric and does not stand out.
When the thread is weak, the thread of the same thickness may be used, or thin threads of the same material or spun thread may be sewn together, so the most important point in linking may be the linking thread. Maybe.
How was it?
Did you solve your worries about linking?
Please go to the store and pick up the linked knit and non-locked cut-and-sew and compare them!
There should be a big difference in the way the fabric fits, such as the one that is linked and the one that is not linked.
see you then ^^ /